Day 1, April 25 Off to Saint Jean Pied de Port (SJPP)

SJPP to Orisson, 7.5 km , 10:55 am - 1:15 pm, 2h 20 min

A bit rainy and misty but not too bad. That morning at breakfast in hotel we met a girl form Finland, called Gun May Aman (Goomay). She was very nice and doing the Camino on her own. Gun May had a husband and 2 children but forget what age. I could identify with her but she seemed to be handling it better. Go figure,does suck ring a bell. Patrick had more wonderful stories and I could have listened to him longer but needed to get going. He told us of the lady he helped repack who originally was carrying 25 kg. Wonderful coffee, bread, croissants and jams for breakie. Patrick mention some other places close by like Bilbao, Biaritz, Hendaye, St. Jean de Luz, and Irun. They sounded facintating and I'd like to come back after the Camino and maybe visit them if I can. Irun is a village that when the fishing boats come in you can choose your fish and they'd cook it for you right there. Love that stuff. Before going into Bayonne train station we took pictures of my Little Red Roaster cups in front to show back home and get a $10 coupon. Then ditched the cups as just extra weight.

We boarded the neat, little train, one or two cars, and it reminded me of the St. Thomas to Pt. Staneyly train. Just a great ride. Very scenic with woolly sheep, streams, minature ponies, hawks (maybe turkye vultures) and woodlands. It was misting and overcast but could still view mchh of the landscape. We finaly arrived in SJPP and walked through the busy little village to theAcueil Saint Jacques welcoming centre for Pilgrims. This is the starting point for the Camino Frances. Here we bought our Spanish credentials and weighed our backpacks. I think Karen's was 9 kg, mine was 12 kg, and Daytons around 16 kg. Much too much weight for all. But we kept everything. We also purchased some fruit and snacks for the first leg to Orisson which added to the weight.

Off out of the village we head up and up (step by step along the way I go) into the Pyrenese sucking wind and wondering if we were going to make the first stop with our lungs caving in. We would not see much of the valleys because of the mist and fog but could still see the vistas of the mountain sides and had some spectacular views. We met other pilgrims but not many. We also saw a peregrino walking his hores and he had the attire of an ancient pilgrim and also his horse. Many of the horses and cows we saw on the hillside and road had large bells around their necks. I cut up an apple for one of the horses and all he did was spit at me and tried to eat Karen's coat. In the process I nicked my finger and instead of doing the medical correct thing I just licked it and wrapped a Kleenis around it. Off we went up and up and it started to rain, sleet and was damp and cool. It was a tough climb and thought of the affirmations and could agree with three of them even though really struggling. Just as the rain came heavier, we reached Refuge -Auberge Orisson and went inside to book into our dorm. Quaint hotel with rustic wood beams and stone. We checked in and then got set up in our bunks. We had to wash and dry our outer clothes and hand them up inside. We did get to use the dryer after a bit and soon were all set. Still not sure where everything is so have to unpack and repack things. Our room had 3 sets of bunks and one cot was put in. All totalled 7 in the small room. Should be interesting. Women's dorm full so Karen was with us. Then down to the pub for notes and beer/wine and snacks and commaradarie. People here are very friendly. The proprieter Jean Jacques, Rmva and Panchita, the gal were very helpful explaining things. Looking forward to dinner and more fun with the gang of multi national pilgrims. It was sure great of Ted and Barb to recommend we stay the first night here as it would have been dangerous and perhaps stupid to have tried to get to Roncesvales in one day.

Dinner was noisy and jovial with about 25 of us. We all introduced ourselves and many from Germany, France, and Canada via Quebec, U.S., and forget the other nationalities. A great meal of wine, salad, lentil chorizo soup, lamb, potatoes and yogurt and of course bread. Karen had veggie soup, bread, salad, and wine with I think icecream or fruit for dessert. I was so full I didn't think I could move so would sleep right at the table. Great time chatting then to bed to a cacophony of snoring. All were exhausted from the difficult first day which was another day the Lord had made.

April 23, 24, Drive to Airport and Paris to Bayonne

We all loaded into the Hypes' van, Dayton, Karen, Jordan, Chrissy, Linda and of course, me. I think I started my Camino when I stepped into the van or it could have been a year ago. It was a very strange feeling knowing I would not be seeing Linda for anywhere from 35 to 45 days. We arrived at the airport and all went for a quick lunch before checking through into the secure area. It was hard saying goodbye. I felt strange and a bit lost or should I say empty watching Linda leaving the airport. I wanted to turn around and get one more hug, and good thing I didn't as I may have not continued. It has been a dream of mine to finish the Camino, but dreams shouldn't be this hard. However, if following one's dreams were always easy, they probably wouldn't be worth it. I called Linda around 8:10 pm to say final goodbye then boarded. Once in my seat, I soon discovered the seat would be empty beside me. Kind of ironic that Linda sits there and since she's not here, no one is sitting there. Once in the air I started to watch Two and and Half men and lightened up. Laughter is really a good medicine. Then dinner and some wine and more movies. It was a good flight and we arrived in Paris on time.

April 24 Paris and to Monparnese Train Station, then Bayonne

We picked up our bags with our backpacks in and then discarded the old bags. Mine was one of Cam's old hockey bags. Didn't really know how to get rid of it as security might think I was hiding or dropping off a bomb so very sneakily stuffed it into a garbage can. I think Dayton just left his on a bench. We passed through security and customs without problems and everyone at the airport was very helpful and friendly. After catching the bus for Montparnese, we discovered it wouldn't be that long of a ride. It was exciting watching all the stuff going on as we travelled to the train station. It would have been interesting to have walked the route. When Linda and I re visit the area, we will stay in Paris at least three full days. We arrived at Montparnese station and then started to orient ourselves and find the platform we needed to get the train. We actually were quite early so we tried to change our tickets to an earlier train. Then we grabbed something to eat and had to chuckle as Dayton slopped on his clean shirt. Usually it would have been me. We grabbed a bench and just people watched and waited. I love to people watch and try to figure out where they came from, where they are going, what they do, do they have family, etc. Karen had about 2 pounds of trail mix which we decided to start eating to lighten the load. As per train stations, items were expensive, especially the bottled water, 4 to 5 euro for half litre. So make sure you fill up with water before the train station. I looked for a water fountain but none existed, and there was a sign in the washrooms saying not to drink the water. I even had to pay to pee, but that is not unusual in some places in Europe.

Finally, we could board the train for Bayonne, but really didn't know if we were in the right seats or car. Not many people in our car anyway so didn't worry. Would just plead the dumb foreigner part. I love trains and enjoyed the ride and watching the country side pass by. There were quaint little farms and houses in the villages, rolling fields and people working the fields and their little gardens getting ready to plant or weeding gardens. Spring flowers starting to appear and the vineyards were just starting to grow. Beautiful country side and even passed through an area of forest and shale/sandstone quarries. Even saw some sheep. Somewhere in there I fell asleep so missed some things. When I woke up I decided to repack some things and get rid of some paper work like airline stuff and train stuff. Less to look after. Close to Bayonne a group of young people, probably late high school or early college age boarded our car. It so happened that I was sitting in one of the teachers seat, and I think he would have gotten me to move but a girl, who spoke English explained it was more the conductors fault than mine so he sat in another seat. Well, low and behold, around came the conductor to take tickets and he asked for mine. I played stupid and pretended I couldn't find it and the girl intervened again and he just accepted the fact I lost my ticket (really tore it up but wasn't going to tell him). I did show him my receipt for payment and he said, "Merci monsieur," and that was it. I think Karen and Dayton got quite a chuckle out of this predicament.

We finally arrived at Bayonne and found our way to the Hotel Paris Madrid and met the proprieter , Patrick, (wife Sylvie)who was a wonderful man full of information and spoke excellent English. I think I owe it to the French to learn some French when back home. Patrick has done the Camino many times, backpacked in the Pyrenese, and all over. What an interesting life he has led and is leading. He gave us some good advice about keeping well hydrated and nourished. Patrick also recommended a restaurant close by where we had a great meal. Dayton, paella, Karen, bread and salad, me, a salad with different kinds of meat. Great meal and then some wine to go with it. Back to our room and reorganized for our first day on the Camino. Acutally had a good nights sleep, and Dayton said I snored, and I said didn't hear me but sure heard him. Can't wait for the morning to get going.

May 28, Thursday, Fisterra

Well, out of Santiago and 2 days was great but enough. Noisy last night as the bars and cafes were hopping as Barcelona was playing Manchester United. They really get excited. I went to my room early to watched the game, but soon fell asleep but woke up with the hooting and hollering because Barcelona won. All good fun. Up early and had breakie with Bruce and he decided not to go to Fisterra or what´s know as ¨the end of the world¨. There is a ritual where you are to wash your clothes in the sea, then take them out to the Cabo de Fisterra and you can choose to burn an item. Well, I´m giving the proprietor of the hotel my clothes and he will wash and dry them. So, the other amazing thing to view from Cabo de Fisterra is the sunset. Looks like good condition today to see a good one. I will walk out to the Cabo and take some pictures. The bus ride was very enjoyable and relaxing. I don´t miss walking this route. I will meet Karen and Dayton here tomorrow and we will all go out to the Cabo de Fisterra. Now I am trying to get home early as I´ve done my Camino, and didn´t even buy a t-shirt. Still lots in my head flying around so maybe when everything is over and I´m home I can put it all together.
By for now.

Tuesday, May 25 Into Santiago

Well, finally made it to the cathedral on Monday and met Dayton and Karen and a lot of the other friends we met on the way from Saint Jean Pied de Port. Still can´t get my head around, I´m done, now I have to get home as don´t want to wait till June 8. D. and K. are walking to Finisterre today and will arrive there on Friday afternoon. I´m done walking and will take the bus to Finisterre and meet them to walk out to the end of the world (lighthouse). Friday, Saturday and Sunday was a whirlwind with me covering about 100 km just to get to Santiago to meet all the friends I started out with many weeks ago. The highlight of the journey was the journey and not the end. Although the pilgrim´s mass with everyone who completed the pilgrimmage was emotional and draining in a good way. (I have never been so drenched in all my life, as I was on Sunday). When I got my compostella, the girl asked me if I swam or walked the last few days. What a hoot. Sorry for being disjointed as not really into blogging right now. I am going to the square and just watch some of the pilgrims arrived. Time for quiet and reflection. Thanks for walking with me in spirit. And hope to see everyone soon.

Always remember hindsight is good, as long as you use good insight.

John

P.S. If I had to bring home one thing, what would it be? Any suggestions?

Friday, May 22, Triacastla to Sarria via Samos

Up and away at 7 am as looks like a little longer day as I want to see the Benedictine Monastery in Samos. Foot a little better so should be okay. It sure was a scary highway walking but once off and onto the forest path of narrow roadway was very picturesque. Cool and damp this am but sweating going up and down the hills. Met a lady who was taking time off from work, she is a priest in the Lutheran Church in Sweden. Walked for a little bit and then she move ahead. Great view of Samos coming in and the monastery is huge. It was closed when I was there so just walked around it and went into the store area and had a glimpse of what the inside would be like. It wouldn't be open till 4:30 am and this will be one place Linda and I will spend part of a day or maybe the night to view the inside. I then had a sweet cake and cafe con leche inside as I was damp and cold. Change my shirt and felt better but didn t know which was worse, the coolness outside or the cigarette smoke inside. Off for a long up and down walk through woods beside the river and into Calvor where I had tortilla lunch and it was freshly made. Just delicious. Last part form Calvor was hot and finally arrived at albergue for pigrims, 3 euro and very crowded and would not reccommend as not greatest facilities for drying clothes you've washed yourself. Off to Portomarin tomorrow. And off for a rest now.

For some reason I started singing Tiny Timś Little Arrows song and substituted with Yellow arrows everywhere, yellow arrows everywhere, All I see are yellow arrows everywhere... Thatś enough. So long.

Thursday, May 21 O Cebreiro to Triacastela

Well back on line for now. Foot ached in middle of night so did exercise of 1 advil, 400 mg and fell back to sleep. Left O Cebreiro around 7:30 and there was a mystic cloud just below O Cebreiro very Harry Potter type setting. Was waiting for the train from Hogsworth to come through the clouds and pick me up. Great views with the sun shining over the clouds and mountain tops and the valleys below. hard steep ascetn toAlto de Poio but at top a cafe and many pilgrims recooperating from the climb. Got my cafe con leche and took off my boots and rewrapped some toes, just for precaution. Lots of chit chat and very pilgrimmy. Foot better but won´t push it. Will get to Triacastela and rest. Can´t believe we´ve come this far. Beautiful vistas towards Triacastle and just as getting close a herd of cattle came around the corner stopping all of us dead cold. I was like the running of the bulls in Pamplona only I call it the slogging of the cows in Triacastle. Got to the albergue in Triacastle and then got lunch and dinner stuff. Very quiet here so will rest and maybe go for a short jaunt to see what´s out there. Called Linda and Olivia and had a nice chat. Here are some álways´one might want to consider on the Camino

1. Always put the toilet lid seat down when climbing over the door.
2. Always don one thing at a time.
3. Always assume there are pits in the olives.
4. Always take extra toilet paper to the bathroom.
5. Always look behind you at what you´ve missed.
6. Always think óne step at a time´.
7. Always say, Hola, Gracias, Perfavor, and Adios.
8. Always assume you´ve forgotten something.

I speak from experience. See ya. Off to Samos or Sarria tomorrow.

Astorga Festival

Day 21, Friday, May 15, Mazarife to Astorga, 7H, 30.1 km

Headed out on my own from Mazarife and cold morning. While walking up a long bouldery track, I felt something pull in my instep. By the time I got to Astorga it was painful. Rested and then took in the religious/agrucultural festival. Groups of people from all over the area were getting organized to walk through the city and end up at the catherdral. Could not believe the flag masts and colourful flags along with the bands. Quite the site. Followed them to the cathedral and went inside and watched the mass service. Quite a beautiful cathedral. The festival was to pray for rain in the spring for a good growing season. Some beautiful vistas on the way from Mazarife, and it still is a wonderful world. Short blog as have to rest my heel.

Day 22, Saturday, May 16, Astorga to Foncebadon, 7H 15 min, 27.5 km

Heel still painful but only when I stop walking. Did not take many pictures or record much as was concentating on the walk up the ascent to Foncebadon. What a spectacular walk and did not even worry about the pain. Stopped quite often just to stare at the mountain and valleys below. Saw Karen and Dayton about 2 km away, believe it or not, and yelled at them Hola, and Karen yelled back, What do you want. You can pick out the energizer bunny from that far away and her sherpa behing her. Started raining just at crest of hill going into Foncebadon and we were cold and damp. Booked into a quaint, ¨hippy¨albergue, small , but quite cozy. A great day and my heel is feeing much better. Should be okay in a couple of days, so am being very careful walking. So, don´t worry, all is fine and we are looking forward to salad and paella tonight. And early to bed. Hope to get to Ponferadda tomorrow.

New format for blog. Short and just the highlights. Dayton bought some black foot ham I mentioned before (patnanegra) Very rich but not that unusual. Couldn´t really taste the acorns.